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Timber for door linings

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By *tu_b_man OP   Man  over a year ago

Nottingham

Is 20mm thickness ok for door linings? I could only get 20mm or 32mm and 32mm looked too chunky. A joiner is fitting them but hasn’t got access to buy the timber so asked me to get it for him.

Thanks for your help/advice

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

I'll get a grown up.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

20mm will be fine guy

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

Ask the joiner what he needs

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By *tu_b_man OP   Man  over a year ago

Nottingham

Haven’t been able to get the exact requirement from the joiner hence asking advice here. Thanks.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"Haven’t been able to get the exact requirement from the joiner hence asking advice here. Thanks."

if you aint bought anything already, then just get over to frank key's on mansfield road (other builders merchants are available) and buy a door lining pack... it comes with housing joints already cut and either pre-rebated or stop beads.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

20 mm thickness is too thin. Go for the old inch and a Half thickness stock 37 mm One it’s finished it comes out at 30mm nominal thickness.

The reason for the larger section is that once you let the hinges in you have sufficient stock left to use inch and a quarter screws.

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By *tu_b_man OP   Man  over a year ago

Nottingham

Been there. They only have small casings though. One needs to be 170mm as it’s gonna have a dot an dab one side and the other is a double set of doors. I ended going to Ron Currie but they only had 20mm and 32mm so bought 20mm.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"Been there. They only have small casings though. One needs to be 170mm as it’s gonna have a dot an dab one side and the other is a double set of doors. I ended going to Ron Currie but they only had 20mm and 32mm so bought 20mm."

are you saying the lining is for double doors? if it is then exchange it for the thicker one is a best

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By *tu_b_man OP   Man  over a year ago

Nottingham


"20 mm thickness is too thin. Go for the old inch and a Half thickness stock 37 mm One it’s finished it comes out at 30mm nominal thickness.

The reason for the larger section is that once you let the hinges in you have sufficient stock left to use inch and a quarter screws.

"

Ahhh so even though the 32mm (finished 32mm) looks incredibly chunky it’ll be perfect? Thanks.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"Been there. They only have small casings though. One needs to be 170mm as it’s gonna have a dot an dab one side and the other is a double set of doors. I ended going to Ron Currie but they only had 20mm and 32mm so bought 20mm."

Too slender mate. 27 years experience!

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"Ahhh so even though the 32mm (finished 32mm) looks incredibly chunky it’ll be perfect? Thanks."

when the architrave goes on, then it won't look more than 4 mm thick anyhow

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

Depends on the door recess surely?

Plus the width of the door .

Tge lining is usually pretty much hidden by doorstop and architrave etc .

I would worry about it to much .

Or measure the existing in the house /flat and get the same ..

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"Been there. They only have small casings though. One needs to be 170mm as it’s gonna have a dot an dab one side and the other is a double set of doors. I ended going to Ron Currie but they only had 20mm and 32mm so bought 20mm.

Too slender mate. 27 years experience!"

a apprentice then?

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By *he Silver FuxMan  over a year ago

Uttoxeter

32mm - stiffer, Wood depth for more secure screws, less risk of bowing / distortion during install and it won’t look any different to the 20mm when the architrave is fitted

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By *tu_b_man OP   Man  over a year ago

Nottingham

And you wouldn’t say 32mm is far too over kill? Is it better to shop around and find something in between 20mm and 32mm? I know architrave will hide it so there won’t be any visual difference. Thanks.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

I would buy both and return whichever one that doesn't get used. If texting the joiner and asking him wasn't an option x

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"Been there. They only have small casings though. One needs to be 170mm as it’s gonna have a dot an dab one side and the other is a double set of doors. I ended going to Ron Currie but they only had 20mm and 32mm so bought 20mm.

Too slender mate. 27 years experience!

a apprentice then? "

Yes Donald Trump type!

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By *gnitemybodyWoman  over a year ago

Onestepoutofthedoor


"I would buy both and return whichever one that doesn't get used. If texting the joiner and asking him wasn't an option x"

I was going to say the same as I know bugger all about doors,apart from the fact they open and close.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"I would buy both and return whichever one that doesn't get used. If texting the joiner and asking him wasn't an option x

I was going to say the same as I know bugger all about doors,apart from the fact they open and close."

Except when they are ajar

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

If you can't get 20mm try 3/4 of an inch instead

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By *ookingforlustMan  over a year ago

northants


"I would buy both and return whichever one that doesn't get used. If texting the joiner and asking him wasn't an option x

I was going to say the same as I know bugger all about doors,apart from the fact they open and close.

Except when they are ajar "

I see what you did there......

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By *andm288Couple  over a year ago

oxford

32 mm for door linings 20 mm is no good

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By *ookingforlustMan  over a year ago

northants

Option 1; Measure the gap. Take away the width of the door plus 6mm. Divide what’s left by 2. That’ll give you the maximum thickness of timber you can use.

Option 2; Buy a ready made door lining.

Option 3; Gat the lazy arse chippy to sort his own shit out, that’s what you’re paying him for.

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By *Oral_loverMan  over a year ago

Denham

32mm door lining, any thinner may not take weight of door.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

It depends on the weight of the door you're hanging

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

Internal doors these days are all hung on 4x1 par.

If it's a heavy door I'd for 4x1 and1/2 par.

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

And if your carpenter works in metric, sack him and get a proper one

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"And if your carpenter works in metric, sack him and get a proper one"

If he works in feet & inches & is less than 70 he needs striking off!

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"And if your carpenter works in metric, sack him and get a proper one

If he works in feet & inches & is less than 70 he needs striking off! "

.

Bollocks there's no craftsmen left under 50 anymore

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

[Removed by poster at 12/03/18 18:04:46]

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago


"And if your carpenter works in metric, sack him and get a proper one

If he works in feet & inches & is less than 70 he needs striking off! .

Bollocks there's no craftsmen left under 50 anymore "

There's loads, just not here and they wouldn't class hanging doors as crafty.

......Oh & they work in mm's

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By (user no longer on site)  over a year ago

Jesus

FAB is awash with carpenters and joiners.

5 year apprenticeship time served craftsman who had built most things!

So ladies if you want your tools honing I am the man!

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