FabSwingers.com > Forums > The Lounge > Boiler advice.
Boiler advice.
Jump to: Newest in thread
 |
By *laymates7 OP Woman
over a year ago
Isle of Wight |
I know I know, unusual place to request such advice but it is Sunday evening and I’m not calling a plumber.
So, my combi boiler was gas checked the other day and since then my hot water from mixer tap over the bath is just about tepid. Both bathroom sink and kitchen are nice and hot. I’ve tried to turn the temperature up on the boiler but it seems it’s limited to 65 deg. How or can I override this?
No it’s not an old boiler like me. Lol
|
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
There are usually a flow switch & a water temperature setting on a boiler…both need to be working at your normal settings for the temp to be right i think,
One thing you can do is look up the make &model of your boiler & research the same issue online. Its what I do when I have a problem with mine... |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"They do both appear to be working but yes will look online. Thank you "
Also check the boiler pressure to make sure it’s up to at least 1.5 in the green area  |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
In a combi boiler there is usually only a very small reservoir of water that is heated & ready to use…the rest is heated as it flows through on demand when you turn on the tap.
So, either your reservoir isn't heating up hot enough water or your flow or demand (turning on tap) isn't registering.
Is it hot at first? or just luke warm? |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *laymates7 OP Woman
over a year ago
Isle of Wight |
"In a combi boiler there is usually only a very small reservoir of water that is heated & ready to use…the rest is heated as it flows through on demand when you turn on the tap.
So, either your reservoir isn't heating up hot enough water or your flow or demand (turning on tap) isn't registering.
Is it hot at first? or just luke warm?"
Oh that’s interesting. It’s just warm after the initial cold bit when first turned on. |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
sounds like its just not heating up to the right temp…but to explain why that is….?
btw…the controls I'm talking about aren't visible on the usual control panel of the boiler. I have to take the side panel off mine to mess around with these things.
See if you can get a copy of your boiler manual online & find the trouble shooting section |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *laymates7 OP Woman
over a year ago
Isle of Wight |
"I thought this thread was going to be about an obsessive stalking crazy woman who popped furry creatures in pots. "
It still could be if I have to use a kettle to fill my bath up with again! Lol |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *oxy_minxWoman
over a year ago
Scotland - Aberdeen |
I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female  |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female "
Firstly your problem with no hot water without the heating sounds like a diverter valve possibly. But ask a qualified gas person to check out I'd say, how long since it was serviced and how old?
Second issue is fairly simple to resolve and is killing two birds as it were, if you have a radiator bleed key. On one side of one should be a square 'nut', first make sure radiators off and are cool. release this a little but not all the way till it hisses then a little water should come out. Don't screw off all the way. Plenty of tutorials on this if you search. |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
"I know I know, unusual place to request such advice but it is Sunday evening and I’m not calling a plumber.
So, my combi boiler was gas checked the other day and since then my hot water from mixer tap over the bath is just about tepid. Both bathroom sink and kitchen are nice and hot. I’ve tried to turn the temperature up on the boiler but it seems it’s limited to 65 deg. How or can I override this?
No it’s not an old boiler like me. Lol
"
Both the bathroom sink and kitchen tap are hot ?
Then why increase the heat from 65 which is the correct tempt ?
IF, IF the bathroom sink is hot , the hot water flow from the boiler is good
You suggest your bath tap is a mixer?? At this moment it sounds like there is your problem it is incorrectly MIXING cold with your hot
I'll 're iterate , IF your bathroom sink tap is supplying hot water then your boiler is working correctly do NOT touch
|
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"In a combi boiler there is usually only a very small reservoir of water that is heated & ready to use…the rest is heated as it flows through on demand when you turn on the tap.
So, either your reservoir isn't heating up hot enough water or your flow or demand (turning on tap) isn't registering.
Is it hot at first? or just luke warm?"
Thats only if the water temp is set high enough..the pre-heater only kicks in if the water temp is set high ..I have mine set at 65 just under the pre heat kick in because my boiler is in a cupboard in my bedroom and used to kick in throughout the night and wake me up.. plus I always think having the pre heat temp high just wastes gas as the boiler fires up many times even if you have not run any hot water..oh the pre heater does not apply to the heating temp you can have that as high as you want on the boiler |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female "
will be fine , just leave it |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *oxy_minxWoman
over a year ago
Scotland - Aberdeen |
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Firstly your problem with no hot water without the heating sounds like a diverter valve possibly. But ask a qualified gas person to check out I'd say, how long since it was serviced and how old?
Second issue is fairly simple to resolve and is killing two birds as it were, if you have a radiator bleed key. On one side of one should be a square 'nut', first make sure radiators off and are cool. release this a little but not all the way till it hisses then a little water should come out. Don't screw off all the way. Plenty of tutorials on this if you search."
Thanks, the diverter valve was replaced (by British Gas) just under two years ago, so it should be ok, Sometimes the water will run hot, then suddenly start running cold, with the heating on, so no idea why.....
I wont be bleeding my radiators tonight as heating is already on and it's too cold to turn it off just now, but I will give it a go tomorrow, (even though I fecked that up, the last time I tried ) |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *.justmeMan
over a year ago
birmingham |
As the weather gets colder so does the water entering your house normal taps that don’t flow much water I.e sink and basin will still get warm as they are designed not to flow as much. Bath taps are generally larger in size so the fix to the problem is turn the tap down so the flow of water is decreased there fore gives the boiler enough time to heat the water as it would with other hot taps |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *.justmeMan
over a year ago
birmingham |
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female "
Having your boiler run at 3 bar isn’t the best easiest way to drain the excess pressure in the boiler without breaking out the tools is to find your blow off valve. Generally found on the underside of the boiler next to the heating pipes,with are normally the out side two pipe. The valve will have a red plastic nob on it and will only turn a quarter of a turn before shutting off twist the valve slowly until you hear the water running and watch the gauge drop do this when it’s cold to save scalding someone outside tho |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *oxy_minxWoman
over a year ago
Scotland - Aberdeen |
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Having your boiler run at 3 bar isn’t the best easiest way to drain the excess pressure in the boiler without breaking out the tools is to find your blow off valve. Generally found on the underside of the boiler next to the heating pipes,with are normally the out side two pipe. The valve will have a red plastic nob on it and will only turn a quarter of a turn before shutting off twist the valve slowly until you hear the water running and watch the gauge drop do this when it’s cold to save scalding someone outside tho "
I know what valve you are speaking about, so thanks! I will do this later to drop the pressure  |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *.justmeMan
over a year ago
birmingham |
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Having your boiler run at 3 bar isn’t the best easiest way to drain the excess pressure in the boiler without breaking out the tools is to find your blow off valve. Generally found on the underside of the boiler next to the heating pipes,with are normally the out side two pipe. The valve will have a red plastic nob on it and will only turn a quarter of a turn before shutting off twist the valve slowly until you hear the water running and watch the gauge drop do this when it’s cold to save scalding someone outside tho
I know what valve you are speaking about, so thanks! I will do this later to drop the pressure "
Any problem drop me a message |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *oxy_minxWoman
over a year ago
Scotland - Aberdeen |
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Having your boiler run at 3 bar isn’t the best easiest way to drain the excess pressure in the boiler without breaking out the tools is to find your blow off valve. Generally found on the underside of the boiler next to the heating pipes,with are normally the out side two pipe. The valve will have a red plastic nob on it and will only turn a quarter of a turn before shutting off twist the valve slowly until you hear the water running and watch the gauge drop do this when it’s cold to save scalding someone outside tho
I know what valve you are speaking about, so thanks! I will do this later to drop the pressure
Any problem drop me a message "
So the water will pour out of my flue? Also would this action stop/cut off my ignition flame?
Just so I am forewarned and don't think I have broke it completely  |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Having your boiler run at 3 bar isn’t the best easiest way to drain the excess pressure in the boiler without breaking out the tools is to find your blow off valve. Generally found on the underside of the boiler next to the heating pipes,with are normally the out side two pipe. The valve will have a red plastic nob on it and will only turn a quarter of a turn before shutting off twist the valve slowly until you hear the water running and watch the gauge drop do this when it’s cold to save scalding someone outside tho "
DO NOT DO THIS!!!!
Said pipe is your P.R.V (pressure releif valve and is a safety device ONLY. Also 1 time use, its set to blow out excess pressure at ~3 bar and if you manually do it... Guess what? You wont have any pressure in your system and it'll not only cost you to get it replaced (and that can be a right shit boiler depending (read: expensive))
It will then drip, forever, until replaced (because it is a 1 time use device, look a toilet overflow.. designed to vent and alert you of a problem)
Also this tosh about incoming water being colder and taking longer to heat... right? On a SEALED pressurised system... what planet are you on?
As for the original problem. I'm not 100% sure, could be an airlock. Could be no pressure, could be a blocked/bypassing valve or tap. Unless you are competent - don't touch and stay away from your boiler. Not gas safe registered? Hands off: period. |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By *oxy_minxWoman
over a year ago
Scotland - Aberdeen |
"
DO NOT DO THIS!!!!
Said pipe is your P.R.V (pressure releif valve and is a safety device ONLY. Also 1 time use, its set to blow out excess pressure at ~3 bar and if you manually do it... Guess what? You wont have any pressure in your system and it'll not only cost you to get it replaced (and that can be a right shit boiler depending (read: expensive))
It will then drip, forever, until replaced (because it is a 1 time use device, look a toilet overflow.. designed to vent and alert you of a problem)
Also this tosh about incoming water being colder and taking longer to heat... right? On a SEALED pressurised system... what planet are you on?
As for the original problem. I'm not 100% sure, could be an airlock. Could be no pressure, could be a blocked/bypassing valve or tap. Unless you are competent - don't touch and stay away from your boiler. Not gas safe registered? Hands off: period."
Thanks! I'm not silly enough to take everything on here as truth as I did think the valve looked more like a danger thing! I was more concerned being at 3 bars tbh and whether it was dangerous!
I caused myself more issues when I tried to bleed my radiators about 8 years ago lol And therefore not slap dash in mucking about with it since! That was when I found out about the pressure valve in the first place 
Think I'm just going to leave everything be and see what happens on it's own |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Firstly your problem with no hot water without the heating sounds like a diverter valve possibly. But ask a qualified gas person to check out I'd say, how long since it was serviced and how old?
Second issue is fairly simple to resolve and is killing two birds as it were, if you have a radiator bleed key. On one side of one should be a square 'nut', first make sure radiators off and are cool. release this a little but not all the way till it hisses then a little water should come out. Don't screw off all the way. Plenty of tutorials on this if you search.
Thanks, the diverter valve was replaced (by British Gas) just under two years ago, so it should be ok, Sometimes the water will run hot, then suddenly start running cold, with the heating on, so no idea why.....
I wont be bleeding my radiators tonight as heating is already on and it's too cold to turn it off just now, but I will give it a go tomorrow, (even though I fecked that up, the last time I tried ) "
Diverters rarely go for no reason. It may have been replaced but if the original cause has not been rectified it has most likely failed again. |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"I thought I would use this thread for my current problem!
The last couple of weeks, I noticed that I wasn't getting hot water unless my heating was on, so this lunchtime I checked my pressure gage and it was under 1 so I increased it to 1.5 (but inadvertently increased it to slightly over 2, and when I came home from work just now, it seems to have increased to 3 (when the heating came on!)
Is this dangerous? And if so, how do you reduce the pressure back down to around 1.5?
Thanks in advance, from a cack-handed single female
Having your boiler run at 3 bar isn’t the best easiest way to drain the excess pressure in the boiler without breaking out the tools is to find your blow off valve. Generally found on the underside of the boiler next to the heating pipes,with are normally the out side two pipe. The valve will have a red plastic nob on it and will only turn a quarter of a turn before shutting off twist the valve slowly until you hear the water running and watch the gauge drop do this when it’s cold to save scalding someone outside tho
DO NOT DO THIS!!!!
Said pipe is your P.R.V (pressure releif valve and is a safety device ONLY. Also 1 time use, its set to blow out excess pressure at ~3 bar and if you manually do it... Guess what? You wont have any pressure in your system and it'll not only cost you to get it replaced (and that can be a right shit boiler depending (read: expensive))
It will then drip, forever, until replaced (because it is a 1 time use device, look a toilet overflow.. designed to vent and alert you of a problem)
Also this tosh about incoming water being colder and taking longer to heat... right? On a SEALED pressurised system... what planet are you on?
As for the original problem. I'm not 100% sure, could be an airlock. Could be no pressure, could be a blocked/bypassing valve or tap. Unless you are competent - don't touch and stay away from your boiler. Not gas safe registered? Hands off: period."
I'd go with this advice. I was told that to keep my pressure near the red hand, top it up if it goes below. And if it goes much too high (about 4 bars I think) it will blow the water out of the flue place. I was not told to do this manually. I have occasionally let a little too much water in but it has settled back down after a while itself. As to the water outside Being colder, I find that my hot water is slightly cooler in winter when the inlet water is cooler and hotter in summer when it's warmer. I would recommend NEVER do ANYTHING with a boiler that you don't know what you're doing. XXX |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
|
By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
|
"I know I know, unusual place to request such advice but it is Sunday evening and I’m not calling a plumber.
So, my combi boiler was gas checked the other day and since then my hot water from mixer tap over the bath is just about tepid. Both bathroom sink and kitchen are nice and hot. I’ve tried to turn the temperature up on the boiler but it seems it’s limited to 65 deg. How or can I override this?
No it’s not an old boiler like me. Lol
Both the bathroom sink and kitchen tap are hot ?
Then why increase the heat from 65 which is the correct tempt ?
IF, IF the bathroom sink is hot , the hot water flow from the boiler is good
You suggest your bath tap is a mixer?? At this moment it sounds like there is your problem it is incorrectly MIXING cold with your hot
I'll 're iterate , IF your bathroom sink tap is supplying hot water then your boiler is working correctly do NOT touch
"
This^^^
Its purely coincidnetal, and If all taps are ok and the one tap or shower isnt, it is highly unlikely to be the boiler is it? The only exception is if your system is full of debris that when the hot water is on for a long period i.e. being in the shower the boiler could be getting too hot and shuts off doing its job.
Most likely it is the mixer tap/shower, but a small possibility the domestic heat exchanger could be restricted, obviously you’ll need to remedy the underlying fault that caused the domestic heat exchager to restrict in the first place aswell.
Ask the engineer back and get a price of him. |
Reply privately, Reply in forum +quote
or View forums list | |
» Add a new message to this topic
