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By (user no longer on site) OP
over a year ago
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Just got a flat tyre, pulled off the dual carriageway for the space saver out of the boot loosened off all the nuts, got the adapter for the locking nut can't undo it just keeps ringing off had to call breakdown assistance for a fucking flat, feel like a real tit |
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I have had to call recovery on more than one occasion AND get assistance from strange men a couple of times cos I can't loosen the nuts by myself. 
And then I look like such a girl telling the big strong man that honest I can take it from here...  |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"Thank goodness for runflat tyres, no need for roadside assistance.  "
Unless they burst or rip as I've had a couple do in the last few years. Runflats are great but not infallible.  |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"Thank goodness for runflat tyres, no need for roadside assistance.
Unless they burst or rip as I've had a couple do in the last few years. Runflats are great but not infallible. "
.
Touch wood to no rip or burst tyres. However, I do have full breakdown cover if I do. |
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"Well that has made me feel better the breakdown man can't get the nut off either "
dont replace the locking wheel nuts
now alloys are so common getting them nicked is a thing of the past.
and they just cause more hassle than there worth |
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Was driving the missus' car a few years ago and got a puncture. Got the jack out and had the wheel off in a jiffy. All good I hear you say.
This is when I discovered that the spare was flat as well  |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"
dont replace the locking wheel nuts "
You mean: DO replace them??? With ordinary wheelbolts / nuts that is. Even my tyre fitter said he has problems every day with owners losing their key. I just replaced mine with normal bolts, same as the other four. |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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I always carry a tin of tyre weld as well as the spare in the boot. If I can't get the locking nuts off then I use that instead.
It's good practice to remove and refit locking nuts once a month to be on the safe side. Do it while checking the tread depth, which I assume you already do... |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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New car only done 75 miles.
Blow out on motorway.
Open boot and find a tyre inflater with some gung to put in.
Ring RAC, get car taken to tyre place and replaced blown tyre free of charge cos its brand new..
No spare, jack or anything else these days it seems. |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"New car only done 75 miles.
Blow out on motorway.
Open boot and find a tyre inflater with some gung to put in.
Ring RAC, get car taken to tyre place and replaced blown tyre free of charge cos its brand new..
No spare, jack or anything else these days it seems."
This is a problem with new cars. A spare wheel and tool kit is now an option and must be specified when you order the car. |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"Wire brush to remove any rust, some grease on the studs and nuts should result in easily removable wheels
Not copper slip though...
may i ask why not copper slip ???"
It reacts with the alloy in the wheel and also the lacquer. In some circumstances it can almost glue the wheel to the hub. It is also slightly abrasive and can damage threads. You're best off using something like Molybdomen grease or CV Grease. |
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"Wire brush to remove any rust, some grease on the studs and nuts should result in easily removable wheels
Not copper slip though...
may i ask why not copper slip ???
It reacts with the alloy in the wheel and also the lacquer. In some circumstances it can almost glue the wheel to the hub. It is also slightly abrasive and can damage threads. You're best off using something like Molybdomen grease or CV Grease."
ahh right thanks , as i have been using copper slip for the last 30yrs on the threads on steel wheels, well your never to old to learn |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"Wire brush to remove any rust, some grease on the studs and nuts should result in easily removable wheels
Not copper slip though...
may i ask why not copper slip ???
It reacts with the alloy in the wheel and also the lacquer. In some circumstances it can almost glue the wheel to the hub. It is also slightly abrasive and can damage threads. You're best off using something like Molybdomen grease or CV Grease.
ahh right thanks , as i have been using copper slip for the last 30yrs on the threads on steel wheels, well your never to old to learn "
Should be okay with steel wheels, although there is a risk of damaging the threads or it drying out making removal difficult. The main issues arise with alloy wheels. |
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By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago
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"New car only done 75 miles.
Blow out on motorway.
Open boot and find a tyre inflater with some gung to put in.
Ring RAC, get car taken to tyre place and replaced blown tyre free of charge cos its brand new..
No spare, jack or anything else these days it seems."
New cars tend to come with 3yrs Roadside anyway and the majority of people would rather ring roadside than attempt to change a wheel at the side of a busy motorway. I do know how to change a wheel, but wouldn't bother to try as chances are I couldn't undo the nuts anyway and would just end up covered in crap as I attempted to.
Manufacturers have got rid of the spare wheel and tool kit to reduce weight and therefore reduce CO2 emissions so cars appeal better to corporate customers who have to look at company car tax. I work in the motor trade - I'm not just sad enough to know all that! |
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